Remirez de Ganuza Fincas de Ganuza Reserva Rioja DOCa Spain 1997

The colour is a deep, saturated dark ruby with almost brown rims, and the nose has an immediate sense of concentration and richness. Tobacco and fine, peppery spice, and the mineral is not too over deep-set but compliments the sweet and ripe black berries. Just a hint of cedar and something gamy adds a lovely touch of extra complexity. In the mouth it has massive presence: there is the concentration of the cassis and black plum fruit that is dense and sweet, a big chocolate-infused layer of wood smoke, and those complex spice and savoury, clove and cinnamon-like notes. Very powerful stuff, very striking and intense, the finish is long, spices tingling on the lips as the sweet fruit persists.